THE UNRAVELING OF LUXURY: IS SOCIETY MOVING AWAY FROM LUXURY CLOTHING?
By: Hillary Leblanc
For centuries, society has shopped for clothes but certain brands have had financial backing and a story to support a higher price point. Fashion houses in Europe and America have shared rich stories of craftsmanship, family-owned companies with long lineages and quality products that deserve a higher price point than brands that try to imitate them. With the rise of social media and a deepening divide between elite and the working or middle class, luxury shopping has come under scrutiny. Recent scandals have added more fuel to the fire by questioning why someone should purchase an authentic luxury item versus a dupe. There is also more pressure to shop local and more ethically.
Recently, luxury brand Loro Piana, which is owned by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy (LVMH) was put under court administration after being investigated for worker exploitation. It was uncovered that the brand had hired a subcontractor to do work that it was unable to do, including creating cashmere jackets. This subcontractor then hired another company which was using workers from China for a reduced cost without respecting health and safety regulations including breaks, wages and holidays. The Italian justice system recently investigated Armani and Dior as well, with Dior having to pay 2 Million Euros toward victims of exploitation despite being cleared.
Source: Evgenii Vasilenko / @slowstreet
In the midst of this scandal, making many consumers question the ethics behind luxury brands, many Chinese supply chain workers flocked to TikTok to show how they are allegedly creating products for our beloved luxury brands. This was done, in part, due to the tariffs imposed by the American Government. Chinese manufacturers showed themselves surrounded by boxes claiming to be full of our ‘alleged’ luxury goods, some even showed themselves making what could be extremely high-quality dupes.
Former buyer at Saks Fifth Avenue, Shayne Stephens, is one of many people who have received Instagram direct messages from supposed purse duplicate manufacturers claiming Hermes-like quality. Though he has never tried his hand, a friend of his who owns true luxury from stores like Louis Vuitton decided to buy a couple of dupes to compare. While still costing around $500, these highly sophisticated dupes continue to beg the question, what is being purchased when we buy luxury products? Stephens admits that most consumers know they are paying for the marketing and the brand when buying a luxury item. “ I believe that we always knew the margins were ridiculous and not in favor of the consumer and always in favor of the brand. However, we didn't know until the last few years just how much that was. Ultimately, this is still a for profit game.” Stephens adds that some brands, like Hermes, have maintained magic, quality and the value of their product remains but other brands do seem to be cutting corners.
Luxury shopper Pedro Parreira buys luxury for the full experience and not just the product.” I always say ‘I’m too poor to buy cheap’ because I believe in buying better and buying once. When I shop luxury, I’m investing in the quality, the craftsmanship and the presentation from the packaging to the service.” He wants to buy items that have timeless aesthetic and longevity in terms of durability. He has noticed a decline in quality despite surging prices. Now when Parreira shops he looks for authenticity and commitment to true craftsmanship, high-quality materials, maintaining strong production standards, potential lifespan and assurances such as sustainability as well as ethical sourcing.
Source: Jonathan J. Castellon / @jon_cast2
Brian Lamont, a New York based stylist and luxury shopper shares he too has observed a significant shift in manufacturing practices, particularly among independent designers within the U.S. To this end, he sees value in partnering with independent designers and using secondhand retailers to maintain quality within his practice. “This dual approach allows for the discovery of distinctive, sustainable pieces while simultaneously supporting emerging talent and extending the lifecycle of existing garments. It’s a strategy that not only meets the demand for originality but also aligns with the industry’s growing commitment to sustainability and conscious consumerism.”
Ivor Pinder, works in luxury sales for a family-run Italian brand. He feels the Loro Piana scandal is a reminder that “authenticity must extend beyond the product to how people are treated.” He adds, “Whether through oversight, negligence, or greed, 2025 and beyond will demand transparency. Customers still want quality, but now they expect ethics to be part of the experience—for both employees and clients.” He hopes this moment will allow luxury to reset and redefine itself, choosing integrity, fairness, and values that last as long as the product itself.
While society can hope that luxury will redefine itself as this continued transparency works against brands, Stephens rightfully points out that the 1% can still afford these exuberant prices. He feels that the younger generation who would go to luxury brands to buy smaller items like card holders, key chains, scarves, are less interested due to debt and the negative perception luxury has and the mass market is pivoting away from these brands. While we we won’t see the demise of Luxury Fashion, the luxury market does need to work on its ethics in a world that has knowledge at it’s fingertips. The power of social media from a younger generation has rightfully brought positive changes to make the luxury world more transparent and ethical.